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Sabato 14 novembre 2009 Giorno di sosta e visite ad Assuan.
BOOM. La bordata è partita, c'era da aspettarselo prima o poi ma quando è arrivata ha colpito duro. E' uscita ieri sera dalla bocca di un venditore del mercato di Assuan, un omino dal volto asimmetrico che fa anche la guida turistica che, guardando le nostre divise ci dice in italiano: “Belzoni? Ladrone”. Ecco qui, non è certo una novità o una sorpresa, ma in questi giorni in cui abbiamo vissuto una specie di progressiva esaltazione nei confronti del Titano di Padova, vedendo i territori in cui ha operato e immaginando le condizioni in cui ha operato, abbiamo rimosso completamente questo aspetto della sua personalità.. “Belzoni ladrone”ci rimbomba nelle orecchie e capiamo che questo appellativo sembra una personale ritorsione nei confronti dell'asportazione dell'obelisco del tempio di Filae, che tante grane ha causato al nostro in vita e che si trova proprio qui ad Assuan. Certo, potrei dire che Belzoni non è stato certo l'unico, che tutti i primi archeologi hanno avuto questo fama, suffragata dai fatti, di predoni e di predatori al fine di far riempire le bacheche di un museo della propria nazione e far felice un re, un presidente, un pubblico. Che sarebbe poi quello che si dice adesso il vero “utilizzatore finale”. E che tutti - inglesi, francesi, tedeschi - non erano stati da meno, da Napoleone a Carter, da Champillon a Drovetti per arrivare a Schlieman. Eppure quel “Belzoni ladrone” stona, ci dispiace, ci fa stare un po' male. D'altronde la storia è fatta di culture vincenti e perdenti, che si impadronivano delle precedenti, di spoliazioni, di furti, di ornamenti con le vestigia dei vinti. E noi veneziani ne sappiamo certo qualcosa: mi riaffiorano alla mente alcune strofe (un po' storpiate) della canzone di Alberto d'Amico “Ariva i barbari a cavalo”: Statue, marmi, colone e ori / xe roba robada ai greghi e ai mori / le ciama beleze ma mi go paura / par un toco de marmo i ne manda in guera / Luisa che ladro che xe Marco Polo / scampa che i mongoli... ne core drio”. Della serie la storia si ripete. Quindi, in questi giorni, non toccateci Belzoni.
Oggi giornata di visita ad Assuan, con perlustrazione della grande diga e soprattutto il bel tempio di Filae, dedicato a Iside, che sarebbe stato sommerso dal lago Nasser se non fosse stato spostato e ricostruito su un'altra isoletta. L'ambientazione è spettacolare, uno dei templi meglio conservati, da raggiungere solo via mare grazie a dei taxi-acquatici, dei traghettini a motore che rendono tutto molto pittoresco.
Siamo ai piedi della prima cateratta, che costituiva il primo ostacolo nella navigazione sul Nilo. Oggi poi, dopo due ore di visita al tempio arroccato sull'acqua, altro viaggio in vaporetto (almeno così mi sembra) per una escursione verso le cateratte (dove osserviamo cicogne, aironi e altri uccelli coloratissimi) in direzione di un villaggio nubiano. Impressionante risalire la corrente a tratti anche molto impetuosa, con gorghi e passaggi difficili vicini alle rocce. Nel complesso una bella escursione, stimolante. Manca solo la visione di un coccodrillo a pelo delle acque del Nilo, ma ne vedremo un paio, in cattività, proprio nel villaggio nubiano. Qui ad Assuan infatti c'è una grande attenzione per questa cultura, che è stata seriamente messa in crisi in questi ultimi anni: i poveri nubiani infatti sono quelli che hanno pagato il dazio più alto alla costruzione del lago di Nasser, che ha letteralmente spazzato tutti i villaggi. Così sono stati costretti a spostarsi a valle della diga stessa, tra Assuan e Kom Ombo, subendo uno sradicamento sociale e culturale decisivo. Si distinguon subito i nubiani, per il colore più scuro della carnagione, i lineamenti più marcatamente africani, il naso camuso, i capelli ricci. E sono anch belli, in alcuni casi imponenti e regali. Oggi quindi si finisce la giornata con un ulteriore passaggio al mercato e poi la visione di una partita di calcio sentitissima, Egitto-Algeria, decisiva per la qualificazione ai mondiali del 2010 in Sudafrica. Qui tutta la nazio e è in fibrillazione, fin dal mattino girano automobili impavesate coi colori nazionali, nero, bianco e rosso. La nostra guida Adel ci dice che se l'Egitto riuscirà a qualificarsi questa notte succederà il finimondo e le stade brulicheranno di persone acclamantii. In caso di sconfitta, invece, sarà il silenzio più amaro. Sinceramente non sappiamo cosa sperare: tiferemmo sicuramente per la nazioe che ci sta ospitando da oltre due settimane, ma nello stesso tempo vorremmo dormire qualche ora, dato che la sveglia sarà alle 4.30 del mattino. Per tutta la giornata abbiamo esorcizzato il problema tappa di domani, l'ultimissima: semplicemente non ne abbiamo parlato. Cercheremo di trovare le energie fisiche e nervose (i questi casi si pedala più con la testa che con le gambe) per superare anche quest'ultimo ostacolo. Secondo me, dopo le eserienze di questi giorni, ce la faremo. 280 km di deserto con sole 11 ore di luce. Domani leggerete. Ciao a tutti e augurateci buona fortuna. Ne avremo bisogno. VAI ALLA GALLERY http://www.belzonionbike.it/index.php?option=com_rokin&Itemid=48&unit=album&act=show&albumid=LA38221258626496〈=it
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Complimenti al fotografo e al vignettista.
A proposito: le due nuove forme ittiche che sono apparse nella barriera corallina di Marsa Alam, le ritroveremo anche nella " Busa de Giareta?" E' il caso di diffondere la notizia?
Sono stata all'exposcuola a Padova.Chi mi conosceva , dopo un veloce saluto voleva sapere notizie del viaggio e soprattutto i retroscena. Ma, quali saranno i retroscena, le cose segrete!! Non ho saputo rispondere. Mi guardavano increduli e, in ogni caso, vi mandano i loro saluti. Chi!!! ...a gente.....
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