Quindicesimo giorno (di U.S.)
Friday, 13 November 2009 21:46
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Giorno quindicesimo del viaggio – venerdì 13 novembre – Edfu – Kom Ombo - Assuan “In Egitto con Belzoni” di U.S.



ABSTRACT: Giornata con pedalata di 65 km da Edfu ad Assuan - Strada che costeggia il Nilo – Visita al tempio di Kom Ombo – Arrivo ad Assuan e all’isola Elefantina senza particolari problemi.

Giornata relativamente leggera. I nostri ciclisti son rilassati. Romeo compie gli anni e riceve due bei canti di augurio e strette di mano amiche quando il cuoco Ramon ci fa sedere su una delle sue tavole strette in una delle sue “osterie” con toilette da cui vorresti fuggire istantaneamente. Alla partenza, stamattina, abbiamo lasciato Edfu dopo aver dormito più di quanto pensavamo, dato il matrimonio che si stava preparando sotto le nostre finestre (vedere in gallery la vignetta di Donato). C’è stato qualche problema di inserimento rapido dei diari dovuto a difficoltà di collegamento in rete: uno è stato inserito la sera e un altro al mattino. I nostri sette ciclisti pedalano tranquilli e tutti in forma scordando raffreddori, brontolii di pancia e di stomaco che da queste parti sono quasi la regola.

Il Paesaggio - Il PRESEPE

Attraversiamo territori che stanno cambiando fisionomia. Le palme continuano ad accompagnarci insieme ad acacie e a tanti altri tipi di piante diverse da quelle che conosciamo in Europa. Ci accompagna la consueta povertà delle campagne che fa stilare giudizi ingenerosi su alcune abitudini di vita. Ma si sa che la povertà, unita a livelli culturali bassi produce una miscela di degrado che ci appare come incuria e scarso decoro. Quello che vediamo ci ricorda tanto il PRESEPE. I personaggi ci son tutti: uomini e donne con lunghi vestiti e con copricapi orientalizzanti, asini e tanti che portano in groppa personaggi con visi di un caratteristico estremo; bambini tutti sorridenti che sbucano da ogni dove, persone addette a piccoli mestieri collocate in angusti ambienti, tuguri di paglia e case con animali in promiscuità. Il nostro Gesù nato in una mangiatoia ci parrebbe possibile e credibile anche oggi in alcune zone di queste campagne vicino al Nilo. L’altro ieri (vedi foto di un papà con il bambino in braccio nella gallery) ci siamo fermati lungo una strada in una zona rurale. C’erano quattro muri di mattoni gialli tenuti insieme da malta dello stesso colore: un quadrato 5 metri per cinque. Il tetto erano delle frasche sostenute da una serie di pali incrociati. Dal rialzo della strada si vedeva dentro e ci appariva un unico stanzone. Dentro doveva esserci una zona letto, cucina e tutto era là. Ci viveva un Giuseppe, un uomo alto con caftano e un sorriso buono e una Maria con un neonato che dopo esser stato in braccio al padre è passato in braccio alla madre e veniva allattato con pudore, da seduta, sotto una palma. Il quadro era adattabile a mille, duemila o tremila anni fa…era oggi! Mi son venute in mente certe analisi delle nostre zone rurali a fine Ottocento, quando le relazioni che descrivevano le nostre campagne segnalavano in particolare l’estrema povertà e la forte promiscuità uomo-animali. Certamente fino agli anni ’50 del Novecento, anche nelle campagne venete c’erano situazioni di degrado e povertà che avevano come differenza la diversità di clima e quindi l’aspetto delle abitazioni. Vicino a queste casupole sfrecciano però auto e mezzi di trasporto motorizzati, camion, bus di turisti…nei bar non manca la Coca Cola, la Fanta, la Sprite, la birra; Su molte abitazione molto povere svettano grandi parabole per le televisioni, i cellulari sono diffusi.. C’è un fascino in questa commistione tra ieri e oggi segnalata in modo pesante, in particolare, dell’immondizia che si trova disseminata un po’ ovunque, sotto forma di quelle tremende borsette di plastica che sono appena state bandite in Italia. Si ha l’impressione generale di un paese che marcia a varie velocità: quella rurale, quella delle città, quella dell’edilizia in esplosione, quella di abitudini di vita e igieniche che ci fan sentire spesso lontani, ma…attenzione ai facili giudizi e pensiamo alla nostre campagne di 50-70 anni fa.

Il Tempio di KOM OMBO

A sentire questo nome mi è sempre sembrato di avvicinarmi a situazioni africane vere e proprie. Il tempio è di epoca tolemaica e romana (dal 200 a. C. al 50 d. C circa.). Colpisce la fattura degli altorilievi più realistica rispetto alla tradizione precedente egizia. Si vedono muscoli, ginocchia e seni che si avvicinano allo stile greco-romano. Interessanti le raffigurazioni degli strumenti chirurgici dell’epoca ed il NILOMETRO: un grande pozzo che serviva a misurare l’altezza dell’acqua del Nilo. Fuori del tempio facciamo felici gli onnipresenti bambini che ci offrono i loro braccialetti con scarabeo… la collezione aumenta. So di essere particolarmente invidiato per aver colto l’occasione di comprare, a Luxor, dei gatti di fosforite. Quando ieri sera ne ho messo uno sotto la luce diretta della lampada del bagno, con stupore degli amici, ha illuminato la stanza della sua presenza per svariati minuti…un oggetto di cui nessuno dovrebbe privarsi e infatti tutti han convenuto essere quasi indispensabile!

Il GIRO in FELUCA sul Nilo attorno all’Isola Elefantina

Giro in feluca sul Nilo. La feluca è quella barca a vela triangolare molto alta che rende caratteristico il paesaggio sul Nilo verso il sud. Emozionante vivere l’esperienza della navigazione a vela come per migliaia d’anni han fatto gli egizi antichi. L’Isola Elefantina, che anche per Belzoni era un riferimento costante e segnalava la prima catarratta sul Nilo, è un blocco granitico allungato che divide il fiume in un braccio destro più largo e uno sinistro più stretto. Siamo ospitati nell’albergo principale dell’isola e questo compensa ampiamente le esperienze di frontiera che viviamo col simpatico Ramon, il nostro cuoco dai grandi baffoni e dalla voce tonante.

AL MERCATO di ASSUAN – “Italiani …solo piccola fregatura…

Prima di cenare abbiamo un po’ di tempoe viviamo la sempre elettrizzante esperienza di acquisti in una via di Assuan parallela la Nilo e tutta dedicata ai negozi. Il grande divertimento è il contrattare. Lo facciamo con piacere ormai e vedo i miei compagni di avventura riempirsi di borse e borsette: tovaglie, scarabei, collabe, tuniche, sciarpe… Mi metto a memorizzare le frasi che ci rivolgono quando sentono che siamo italiani…”Italiani, qui qui, no fregatura – Italiani, venite amici italiani solo piccola fregatura - Italiani, brava gente, tanto casino, ma non compra mai niente – Italiani, finito soldi vero (alludono alla crisi credo) – Italiano, italiano…tu rispondi a una, una sola domanda…perché, dimmi perché non compra spezie? – Italia? Italia UNO! Accenniamo ad un’altra frase ricorrente che non capiamo chi mai l’avrà lanciata:” Italia, Italia sì, ma senza P.” . Domani sarà un giorno particolare tra archeologia e antropologia. Sappiamo che molti che ci scrivono non riescono a spedire. Compilate tutte le righe sotto, compresa l’ultima con le sigle scritte a latto in grassetto e in grande Riportatele nello spazio apposito. Sappiate che ogni sera ci ritroviamo a leggere con piacere i vostri graditissimi messaggi…anche un solo ciao ci fa bene.

 

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Sunday 22 December 2013, 02:21
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/268.html
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Hey! I know this is kinda off topic however , I'd figured I'd ask. Would you be interested in exchanging links or maybe guest writing a blog post or vice-versa? My blog covers a lot of the same subjects as yours and I feel we could greatly benefit from each other. If you happen to be interested feel free to send me an email. I look forward to hearing from you! Excellent blog by the way!
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:46
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/669.html
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Have you ever considered creating an e-book or guest authoring on other websites? I have a blog centered on the same subjects you discuss and would really like to have you share some stories/information. I know my visitors would value your work. If you are even remotely interested, feel free to send me an email.
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:46
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/297.html
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Do you mind if I quote a couple of your articles as long as I provide credit and sources back to your webpage? My blog is in the very same area of interest as yours and my users would truly benefit from a lot of the information you provide here. Please let me know if this ok with you. Thanks a lot!
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:46
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/521.html
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I do agree with all of the ideas you've presented in your post. They're very convincing and will certainly work. Still, the posts are too short for newbies. Could you please extend them a little from next time? Thanks for the post.
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:46
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/757.html
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:46
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/348.html
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I love your blog.. very nice colors & theme. Did you make this website yourself or did you hire someone to do it for you? Plz respond as I'm looking to design my own blog and would like to find out where u got this from. thanks a lot
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:47
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/596.html
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I do not even know how I ended up here, but I thought this post was great. I do not know who you are but certainly you are going to a famous blogger if you are not already ;) Cheers!
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:47
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/684.html
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We stumbled over here by a different web page and thought I may as well check things out. I like what I see so now i am following you. Look forward to going over your web page again.
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:47
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/601.html
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I cling on to listening to the reports talk about getting boundless online grant applications so I have been looking around for the most excellent site to get one. Could you advise me please, where could i acquire some?
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:47
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/399.html
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Hi there! This is kind of off topic but I need some advice from an established blog. Is it hard to set up your own blog? I'm not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty quick. I'm thinking about setting up my own but I'm not sure where to begin. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? Appreciate it
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:47
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/495.html
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:47
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/123.html
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:47
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/411.html
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Awsome article and straight to the point. I am not sure if this is actually the best place to ask but do you guys have any ideea where to employ some professional writers? Thanks :)
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:48
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/138.html
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Today, I went to the beachfront with my kids. I found a sea shell and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said "You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear." She put the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back! LoL I know this is entirely off topic but I had to tell someone!
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:48
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/794.html
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:48
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/812.html
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Whats up this is kinda of off topic but I was wondering if blogs use WYSIWYG editors or if you have to manually code with HTML. I'm starting a blog soon but have no coding experience so I wanted to get guidance from someone with experience. Any help would be enormously appreciated!
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:48
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/726.html
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I am really loving the theme/design of your weblog. Do you ever run into any internet browser compatibility problems? A small number of my blog audience have complained about my website not working correctly in Explorer but looks great in Chrome. Do you have any ideas to help fix this issue?
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:49
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/412.html
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:49
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/270.html
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:49
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avatar http://viewdesigncompany.com/tijiao/576.html
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Tuesday 17 December 2013, 09:50
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